The Sustainable Travel Guide to Buenos Aires, Argentina
The Rookie (me!) at the Palacio Barolo, with a view of the Congress
Going back to Buenos Aires, my hometown, after moving to the US, is always a bittersweet experience. When most of us go on holidays for more than a week, we always see everything differently when we return, as if things had inadvertently changed during our absence, a building had been erected, a new sign posted, a recently opened store around the corner. However, we later realize it is ourselves who have changed. We tend to forget that when we leave, when we travel, it is ourselves who move and change, and so when we go back, nothing is the same. It didn’t come as a surprise that Buenos Aires mutated into a stranger in all those years–the city is always awake, it has always been in constant movement, but so was I.
While I’m there, I’m happy to get together with family and friends while revisiting the places from the past, the ones that shaped me. Memories come in waves and transform into laughter when they flow across the dinner table or our arms when we hug. My trips’ focus is always to get close to that big piece of my life, and I can’t deny the heart those moments of friendship and reminiscence that come with a trip back home. Nonetheless, I try to leave at least one day to allow myself to discover unknown places amid the already semi-new environment, mostly because I became vegan when I moved to the US, so it’s a side of Argentina I haven’t been able to explore fully just yet. I love to visit vegan restaurants, coffee shops (probably my favorite activity ever), discover vegan products, and get at least a glimpse of the City of Fury (as Buenos Aires is called), as I was raised in the suburbs and that’s where I stayed during my visit.
WHY YOU SHOULD VISIT BUENOS AIRES
You must have figured out by now that this guide will be a bit biased. Born and raised in Buenos Aires, my heart belongs to the city of jacarandas, friendship, and unstoppable sounds that emanate from the core of the buildings, from the hearts of the people, from the sidewalks themselves, which carry with them the vibrations of the steps of every person who has ever walked there, all of which come together to create the unique vibe and sensations that make Buenos Aires the best city in the world.
Tourists come to see two people fused together dancing tango, even though 90% of the Argentinians I know have just seen tango once in their life, or never. They also come for the food, which can finally be savored in their vegan versions, as it’s a country that’s too fond of asado and dulce de leche. These people come in search of culture, which abounds in the city of Jorge Luis Borges and Ernesto Sabato, of Soda Stereo and Sui Generis, of Marta Minujín, of the artists that feed on its fire, of the regular citizens that try to find meaning and purpose among the roads, the strum of an acoustic guitar, the bookstores in Corrientes, or the connection with the rest of the world through the tides of the Río de la Plata.
I wouldn’t know how to describe Buenos Aires to a foreigner, as my words would fall short of reality. My best suggestion would be to either try finding its wholeness in literature–a lot has been written about the city, and maybe if we put all those perceptions together, we’ll discover the entirety of Buenos Aires’ personality–or take the jump and just visit it. But let me warn you, a lifetime will not be enough to construct a map of the city in your mind. Hundreds of corners will remain a mystery, lots of secrets will never be revealed, and you will be left with a frustrating blackness in this atlas, which you will only be able to fill with your imagination or, little by little, with another visit aimed at quenching that perennial thirst that anyone who visits Buenos Aires must suffer from.
The Best Time to Visit Buenos Aires
Anytime. This city has too many facets, and most will come to light depending on the season. My personal favorite month to be in Buenos Aires is November, when the jacarandas bloom, the streets turn lilac, and even the air smells of trees and purple. Nothing can beat the view of Avenida Libertador during these days. The sun starts scorching little by little without being too harsh, and the imminence of the holiday season and the summer vacations create a relaxing atmosphere that is contagious. If you can visit during this month, do it. Otherwise, you still won’t be sorry. The thing about large metropolis is that they live in a constant. The weather and the passing of time can alter their surroundings, but the essence remains the same. It’s Buenos Aires’ citizens and their burning desire who will keep the city alive day after day, no matter what. So, if you want to visit during Autumn, look at the trees. In case you can go during the winter season, grab your coat, and explore the architecture. If you want to go on summer, rent a canoe and see Buenos Aires from the river.
The jacarandas at the 3 de Febrero park
A SUSTAINABLE AND CONSCIOUS TRAVEL GUIDE TO BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA
PLANT-BASED FOOD IN BUENOS AIRES
During the last 8 years I lived in Argentina I was a vegetarian. At first, I merely ditched any kind of meats and just ate salads and pasta–I was only 18 years old and didn’t know a lot about it, and neither did my parents, as I was the first “gastronomic rebel” of the family. Gradually, I learned some basic vegetarian meals. Tofu was the most groundbreaking product I discovered, although it wasn’t easily available in my country.
When I went vegan in the U.S., I ran into a whole new world of nutrients, plants, and options that had so far remained unknown. After four years, I wanted to see if I could find a similar world in Argentina, who had always been behind when it came to novel products. Nonetheless, I was positively surprised at how many options I had as a vegan.
By the way, mate, the most popular Argentinian warm drink, is vegan! Just make sure you drink it in a vegan mate (mate is the name of the drink, as well as of the container in which you prepare it). If you go during the warmer days, you can also take it in its cold version, tereré, which you can prepare with cold water or orange juice.
Vegan Restaurants in Buenos Aires
Below you Will find a list of suggestions for you to have a delicious vegan meal when visiting Buenos Aires.
Veganius has a calm and luminous atmosphere, so that you can sit down and enjoy your meal. They have a very interesting menu, that ranges from tofu milanesa, to a variety of sweets to have as dessert. They also have a small market inside, where you can buy some vegan goodies.
Vegan Fox has an easygoing ambiance and all the comfort food you need to go vegan without missing out on anything. You can find vegan chicken burgers, fingerfood, among other delicious plant-based sides (mac and cheese, onion rings, and loaded potatoes, to name a few).
Mudrá Plant Based is a modern vegan restaurant (with a super cool ceiling in one area!) that offers a menu designed by Matthew Kenney. Here, you can be delighted by exquisite dishes like moussaka, pasta, or their extensive sushi menu.
There are two vegetarian restaurants I loved going to when I still lived in Buenos Aires. I’m including them here because they also have vegan options, and the food is great. Sattva is a vegetarian restaurant, located at a 12 minute walking distance from Teatro Colón. The atmosphere is like a traditional Argentinian restaurant. I’ll never forget a carrot spread I tried there; it was insanely good. Try the medialunas de jamón y queso veganas (vegan croissants with ham and cheese), or one of their vegan dishes. The other vegetarian restaurant I’ll mention is Bio Solo Orgánico, which was the first certified organic restaurant in Argentina. Although vegetarian, this restaurant also offers vegan dishes (including raw vegan).
Hierbabuena is a lovely restaurant in San Telmo that now offers a tempting vegan menu with many options. There’s also a market inside with organic products, fruit, yerba, teas, to name a few. On my last visits, I sat on a table outside and enjoyed immersing myself in the unique air that embraces the streets of Buenos Aires.
Another vegetarian restaurant with many vegan options is Casa Munay, which serves several sweet and savory plates. Try the vegan alfajor de chocolate!
I also have La Reverde Parrillita Vegana on my list. I didn’t get to go, but I’ve heard about it because what they do is unique and necessary, especially for those who may struggle with dropping meat. They serve traditional Argentinian food, but vegan. It emulates a parrilla (a restaurant specialized in serving barbecue), except whatever is thrown on the grill is made of plants. You can find the classic choripán (a chorizo sandwich) but animal-free, made with seitan; or a vacío, which is another traditional cut of beef, also made of seitan. There are also empanadas, and classic desserts like chocotorta, all cruelty-free!
Mudrá Plant-Based, a modern restaurant in the border of Almagro andBuenos Aires
MARKETS FOR VEGAN PRODUCTS IN BUENOS AIRES
In Argentina we have dietéticas–stores where you can find natural products, mostly food. If you want to find something organic, vegan, or buy herbs, dried fruit, or anything of the sort in bulk, that’s usually where you go. Most specifically-vegan products aren’t sold at the supermarket, as that’s where vegans usually only buy the popular or “accidentally vegan” foods like rice, lentils, or pasta.
Your dietética will change depending on what neighborhood you are on. There are many of them across the city, and you will probably find different vegan products in each one, so what I did was go to several of them (about 5), to make sure I got to discover the highest number of products I could within the 10 days I spent there. In Palermo, for instance, a favorite store is Veganius (which I mentioned in the restaurants section of this post), where they sell ready-to-eat food, as well as take-away. In most dietéticas, however, they sell frozen meals. But there’s a lot more you can find. You can check out my list of delicious vegan food products I found in Buenos Aires (I specially recommend the quinoa pizza and the vegan alfajores).
One thing I appreciate about Buenos Aires is that plastic bags are forbidden, as well as uncertified paper bags. Only eco-bags are allowed–paper bags made with at least 80% of recycled material or with a responsible forest management certification. This law has been in effect since 2017, so everyone takes their own bags for grocery shopping and, at least in my supermarket, they charge for the eco-bags, in case you forgot your reusable ones. The city has taken other sustainable steps, like having collection points for used batteries.
When I lived in Buenos Aires, I divided my grocery shopping between the supermarket, the dietética, and the produce market. I would buy basic products in the first one, the gluten-free, vegetarian (now vegan) and organic products in the second one, and the fruits and vegetables at the market.
Bioma Plant-Based Café
Vegan Coffee
Visiting and spending time in coffee shops is one of my favorite activities ever. I love taking a book with me, sitting on a cozy chair next to a window, and sipping a steaming cup of good coffee.
Bioma Plant-Based Café is the cutest vegan café in Palermo Hollywood. Its façade is very Argentinian, but it’s very modern inside. They offer a wide selection of vegan bakery products, like croissants, pain au chocolat, cakes, tarts, among other delicacies. In my visit I tried the peanut milk with my coffee for the first time ever, although they have other plant-based milk alternatives.
Yunga Café is a plant-based café in Pilar (a city in the outskirts of Buenos Aires, but I’m going to include it because I loved it!). It’s the perfect place to unwind, as it’s located inside a nursery, so you get to sit outside among the plants and smell some fresh air while eating a tasty plant-based breakfast or merienda, and then maybe buy some plants. They also have several gluten free options. I ordered the GF artisan bread with cashew spread and seasonal fruits, and a lemonade with mint and ginger.
Another plant-based café in Buenos Aires is Casa Nueza, which offers a generous vegan food and beverages menu, as well as some gluten free options. Try the typical alfajor de maicena, one of their vegan cheeses, or a yummy date jam.
Not far away from Yunga, there’s Paia Almacen Orgánico, which isn’t plant-based, but they do have some options. I ordered an açai bowl and an espresso. The sitting area is very luminous, and they have outdoor sitting.
Yunga Café, in the Buenos Aires suburbs
MOVING AROUND BUENOS AIRES SUSTAINABLY
Buenos Aires is a big city. You can walk around within neighborhoods, but you’ll probably need a little help to move bigger distances.
There’s always the subway and the bus, although it can be a bit unreliable and sometimes you need to grow a thick skin of patience to ride it. For example, many don’t know that you need to stretch your hand for the bus to stop (as if stopping a taxi), or they’ll just skip the stop (unless someone coincidentally needs to get off the bus). Other times you must sprint a bit to show the driver how badly you want it to stop–it will depend on the driver’s mood that day. The Schedule is basically nonexistent, so even if it’s supposed to pass by every 15 minutes, that’s a mere suggestion, and it could also take half an hour.
What I recommend is using the Eco-Bici (eco-bicycle), which is free for Argentinian residents, but if you are a foreigner, you can get the touristic pass. The daily touristic pass is $1530 Argentinian pesos, which today is a bit more than $7 American dollars–though this value will change constantly depending on the peso-dollar relation. This includes 6 trips of up to 60 minutes within 24 hours. There’s also a monthly pass.
Another recommendation is to go jogging around some of the beautiful parks and neighborhoods of this beautiful city, and maybe do some coffee or beer hopping along the way. Very sustainable and you get a prize every couple of miles!
Riding one of the city’s bikes at the Reserva Ecológica in Puerto Madero
CONNECTING TO NATURE IN BUENOS AIRES
One thing I always talk about is the importance of spending time in nature to connect with this wonderful planet. We can’t take care of something that’s distant and that we don’t know deeply. When you spend time outside, you start understanding how important it is to be respectful of Earth, and what our roles as visitors–not owners– are.
It doesn’t come as a surprise, then, that my guide includes tips on where to connect with nature, even within such a big city as is Buenos Aires. These are the places where you will find the porteños looking for fresh air and bonding.
The perfect place to unwind amid the chaos of the city. In this botanical garden you will find a forest, numerous types of plants, cactus, butterflies, fungi, and birds.
Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur
A park of 350 hectares, that can be accessed from the Puerto Madero neighborhood (a beautiful area to walk around too, along the Río Darsena Sur–make sure to walk across the Puente de la Mujer). An idyllic site, excellent for riding your bike or walking, you will be able to disconnect and give your mind some peace.
The most important green space in Buenos Aires, also known as Bosques de Palermo. An entire day could be spent in this beloved paradise, exercising, having a picnic, reading a book, walking around, hearing the city’s vital green lung breathing. There are tons of things to discover inside the park, like the Eduardo Sivori Museum or the Planetarium, but some of my favorite ones are the 3 recommendations that follow:
During my last visit, I went to Buenos Aires’ Japanese gardens, a nice place to take a walk, see some colorful flowers, and get a glimpse at Japan’s culture. There are several events and activities in the calendar, so I recommend checking it out before your visit and see if you can join an origami class, or maybe a Shodo and Suibokuga exhibition.
One of my favorite places to spend the weekend, this rose garden boats a collection of more than 18,000 roses, a lake, and a lot of natural space in which to have a picnic or lay down and read a book.
There are 4 lakes in the park, which means you will get a dose of water while in the city. There are boat rentals available so you can spend time soaking up the sun and drenching yourself with Buenos Aires’s magic.
Jardín Japonés
SUSTAINABLE AND ECO-SHOPPING IN BUENOS AIRES
I visited the Natura store at Paseo Alcorta, a shopping mall in Palermo. It’s a vegan and cruelty-free beauty brand, B Corp and Leaping Bunny certified, that sells everything from perfumes and skincare to makeup, among other products. They also have recycling bins at the store, in which you can place your clean and empty products for them to recycle, and you receive a 25% discount when you take three or more.
My favorite used books shop in Buenos Aires. There’s such a peaceful air inside, and so many great books to choose from, that the minutes can fly by while browsing through the store without you noticing. This is where I used to buy my used books in English, and where I also did a creative writing workshop. It’s located in the beautiful neighborhood of San Telmo, so I recommend visiting the Café La Poesía and the San Telmo Market (and the rest of the places I recommend later on in this post) after you’ve come out of your literary heaven.
Mercado de Pulgas: The flea market of Buenos Aires is located in the neighborhood of Colegiales, and it’s the perfect place to get lost. Here, you can find antiques, upcycled furniture, mirrors, silverware, frames, basically anything related to deco, and you will also find restoration services for your furniture (although if you’re travelling, I don’t think you’re going to be carrying around your furniture to be restored!).
My favorite vegan and cruelty free shoes in Buenos Aires. Rud Shoes is a fashion venture conceived by two sisters that offers a wide range of shoes made with vegan eco-leather, that are timeless and can be dressed up or down, a very crucial feature in sustainable fashion. They also create bikinis made with other brands’ fabric scraps and offer a very personalized and warm service.
In case you needed a self-care moment for you while visiting Buenos Aires, Althea Beauty Spa offers organic, vegan and cruelty free beauty treatments, including manicure and pedicure, and hair services (hair dying, straightening, haircut, etc.).
A sustainable clothing brand you can choose to buy from to support local businesses. Their clothes are made from bamboo through sustainable processes, and they are fair trade.
A second-hand shop with several locations, it’s a nice opportunity to give some hand-selected clothes a second chance, supporting a circular economy.
OTHER PLACES TO VISIT IN BUENOS AIRES
Because this is my city, I feel obliged to recommend you other places you can’t leave the city without paying a visit to. These are my all-time favorite places in Buenos Aires, and I’m sure they’re also the tourists’ most beloved.
Palacio Barolo: breathtaking architecture is a part of Buenos Aires’ essence, and the Palacio Barolo sits at the top of the throne. It was designed as an allegory of Dante Alighieri’s Divine Comedy, all of which is explained during the walking tour you can take. My other architectural favorites are La Colorada and the Kavanagh building, making these my top 3 buildings in Buenos Aires. Well, I have several other favorites, including the referents of brutalism, Banco de Londres y América del Sur headquarters, and the National Library, and the Teatro Colón. So, maybe my top 10. Why choose just a few?
Casa Rosada: the “Pink House” is the presidential headquarter of Argentina, and it’s located in the Plaza de Mayo. There are free guided tours in English and in Spanish, which you need to book in advance.
Plaza de Mayo from inside the Casa Rosada
Recoleta Cemetery: I don’t want to depress you with this recommendation, although this cemetery is anything but that. A lot of important historical figures of Argentina had been laid down to rest here, not to mention it’s located in Recoleta, one of my favorite neighborhoods.
My favorite libraries: I love to spend my time browsing through books. Besides Walrus, my other favorite bookstores are Eterna Cadencia (an independent bookstore that also has a coffee shop in the patio), Ateneo Grand Splendid (probably the most breathtaking bookstore I’ve ever been to, it used to be a theater and it’s an architectural masterpiece), and Falena (a bookstore and wine bar that has a patio, plants, brick walls, and huge windows).
Teatro Colón: the main opera house in Buenos Aires, considered to be one of the best in the world. To visit it, you can do the guided tour, or buy a ticket to see one of their shows. I’ve seen the Philharmonic Orchestra of Buenos Aires, and a German opera, but there are also ballets and other types of events. You can’t miss this fantastic building and the many talents it harbors.
Barrio Chino: Buenos Aires’ own Chinatown, which comprises a few blocks filled with interesting stores. This is where you can get your Nori or your veggie sushi, or maybe that cat object that’s constantly knocking on an invisible door, for good luck.
San Telmo: one of the oldest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, San Telmo is probably my favorite one in the city, next to Recoleta. I loved to walk around its streets and immediately be transported to a past time, visit the Plaza Dorrego and it’s market, the mercado, the bars that are always alive, Parque Lezama, the museum, the Bar Plaza Dorrego, and maybe run into an used-book market on the street, as pure serendipity. After you walk around Parque Lezama, go to Avenida Caseros and visit Hierbabuena, which I mentioned before, and to Bar Nápoles, which is an eccentric bar decorated with statues and vintage objects.
Museums: my favorite museums in the city are the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, the Malba (Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires), and the Museo de Arte Decorativo (truly an incredible building and collection).
National Library of the Argentine Republic (or Biblioteca Nacional Mariano Moreno): something I like to do when I travel is visit that city’s Public Library. Buenos Aires’ National Library is an amazing brutalist building, which you can explore with the free guided tour.
Café Tortoni: the oldest café of Buenos Aires, founded in 1858, was visited by illustrious figures like Einstein and García Lorca. A great way of travelling back in time while sipping a black coffee (I don’t think you will find vegan options here), seeing a tango or jazz night show, and admiring the beauty of this historical landmark.
National Congress of Argentina: the legislative branch of the government of Argentina, which you can visit (I never did the guided tour, shame on me!), or you can simply appreciate the magnificent building from the Plaza del Congreso.
Paul French Gallery is a place I always loved because of its entrance. To go into the store, you have to walk through a narrow alley that’s covered in plants. Then, you run into a coffee shop located right where the alley widens, and then there’s the interior decoration store.
Last but not least, in case you’re spending many days in Buenos Aires, and you are willing to get away for a day or two, you can do a weekend trip within the Province of Buenos Aires to San Antonio de Areco, Carlos Keen, Manzanares, Tandil, or even to the Río in Acassuso–only a few minutes away by car from Downtown Buenos Aires–where you can practice some water sports, have lunch with a view of the Río de la Plata, or climb in an outdoor gym at Perú Beach.
I hope you enjoyed this sustainable travel guide of Buenos Aires, which I prepared with my galloping and nostalgic heart. Remember: any place you visit, you can do so more sustainably!
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Hi, I’m Melina,
I’m the creator of Sustainable Rookie, and my goal is to share what I learn throughout my sustainability journey, so that I can help other people live a more conscious life.
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